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Latest Threads
New Chopper build
Forum: New Members
Last Post: Hechtlnjekyll
08-07-2021, 01:42 PM
» Replies: 1
» Views: 294
Components
Forum: Electronics
Last Post: RoboticsEvolution
04-11-2021, 02:41 PM
» Replies: 0
» Views: 482
Part 3: The Bottom Frame
Forum: Kelly's Baddeley Build
Last Post: RoboticsEvolution
04-11-2021, 02:21 PM
» Replies: 5
» Views: 12,213
Bad Motivator Build Log
Forum: Eebel’s R5-D4
Last Post: Hechtlnjekyll
04-07-2021, 11:38 AM
» Replies: 1
» Views: 2,564
April 2021
Forum: Moreno Valley
Last Post: Hechtlnjekyll
04-07-2021, 11:37 AM
» Replies: 0
» Views: 486
V3 drive train
Forum: FAQ
Last Post: Hechtlnjekyll
04-01-2021, 06:08 PM
» Replies: 4
» Views: 3,259
October 2020
Forum: Moreno Valley
Last Post: Hechtlnjekyll
10-03-2020, 02:18 PM
» Replies: 0
» Views: 957
Martyman's 232
Forum: 3D Printed Parts
Last Post: Eric38
07-17-2020, 06:11 AM
» Replies: 1
» Views: 4,123
Mr. Robot - Season 4 Comp...
Forum: Software
Last Post: grayfox
05-20-2020, 12:34 AM
» Replies: 0
» Views: 2,736
Home of Build Logs?
Forum: FAQ
Last Post: Eebel
04-16-2020, 07:23 PM
» Replies: 2
» Views: 9,386

 
  New Chopper build
Posted by: lrobar99 - 07-19-2021, 09:31 AM - Forum: New Members - Replies (1)

Hello! I've been printing things for a few years now. I started on an Ultimaker 2 that I was soon figuring out how to get it to print.. after discovering the rods in the back were defective. After learning how to install the new ones I was soon doing mods to the print head to convert it to 1.75 from 3.0 and a new feeder. Fast forward a bit and I added a Creality 10-S4 to the production crew and fought with that for about a year until it was printing nicely. Seriously.. how do they expect a bed that size to heat evenly with the heater pad they put on them? 

I've wanted to print a Chopper for awhile now since Rebels came out but other projects have taken precedence for my printer's time. I finally got to a point where I could start him a few months back. I started on the body since that seemed the most logical point to build off of. The files are awesome and print out nicely. Now that I have all the parts for that I can start putting it together and move to printing another section. Definitely going to be a long build but it will be so worth it. Smile

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  Components
Posted by: RoboticsEvolution - 04-11-2021, 02:41 PM - Forum: Electronics - No Replies

I would like to build the V2 D-0. I see this cool board that simplifies wiring. I want to buy 2. I am going to build one for my shop and one with a school. Take my money, how do I make this happen?

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  April 2021
Posted by: Hechtlnjekyll - 04-07-2021, 11:37 AM - Forum: Moreno Valley - No Replies

So, I finally had some free time in late March and earlier this week to get the Mark III drive and center foot together.
I printed the parts in PETG, 2 in PLA, and TPU. The 2 PLA parts are parts I accidentally printed wrong copies of. I don't think they are very structural so I'm not worried that they are PLA at 50% infill while everything else is PETG. If they break... well, I'll worry about that later.

I did a run of TPU parts once I thought I was done with PETG. I printed anything marked NF, Flex, Ninja and whatever. I then had to go back to the PETG to print Eebel's mods and 2 omniwheel shells that had come out wrong due to warping. (Grr)

Anyway, the omniwheels were a pain in the rump! I burned through a cutting disk but got the axles cut. Strangely the spindles for the center foot were extremely tight. As in I had to pound the bearings into place and the axles were tight too. Not sure what was going on there, tolerances?

I also had some cracking from the very tight square nut holes. I filed them and cleaned them beforehand but some still cracked. Fortunately, they are for the Mark III skins which I will most likely not be using. (I already printed the mark II skins before the Mark III came out)
I will epoxy them when I epoxy the body together... If I can get the workbench for some uninterrupted quality time anytime soon.

Oh, I'd like to thank Eebel for the center foot axle mod and posting pics on Thingyverse! Thanks dude! That helped a lot!
[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

Yes I know the feet are not supposed to be oriented that way. They are off balance due to the motors and I was propping them up for the photo.
Yeah, I printed in different colors. The yellow PETG was cheap at the time. I didn't think it would matter since it is not going to be seen.

The ankle joint is not attached. I understand the shell has to go on first and then the ankle joint and then the rest of the center foot. That should be... fun.  I have a ways to go before I get there though.

So, next is gluing the body as I mentioned. I also downloaded Eebel's Saw kit while I was at it and printed it in PLA. I have another from someone else. I want to combine and modify them to hinge down so Martyman's 2-3-2 will still work. The same for the zapper.
I am still not sure how to rig the motor mounts for the arms with the 2-3-2, they conflict. Some skullwork is in the future!

I am glad I am done with PETG and TPU for the foreseeable future. I might go back and print small critical parts in PETG but hopefully I won't have to. We'll see.

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  October 2020
Posted by: Hechtlnjekyll - 10-03-2020, 02:18 PM - Forum: Moreno Valley - No Replies

So, still struggling to find the time to work on the droid.
Kyle Campbell's progress has made me envious. Between his videos and Michael's, I guilt tripped myself back into the project.

I had several weeks of free garage time, but with the heat I've only had barely an hour each morning before being driven indoors. That's not enough to do much. Hence the lack of progress.
I did finally get the electronic board I created for the Dome Innards soldered, tested, and on the frame. Wiring it up will come later. I found I have to remake some of the wiring harness I created since I relocated the board to the top of the electronics stand. Fun.

Okay, let me back up. Two or so weeks ago I bought an Ender 3. I bought and printed mods for it, and it took a while to get it dialed in to print PETG. I tried an all metal hot end straight up and it had serious clog issues just like the previous 2. So, I went and followed CHEP's advice from his video and used a Capricorn tube and the stock hot end. Works like a charm! Thanks for the sounding board Kyle, and thanks for the tips CHEP!

...Though I do occasionally have sticking issues. This thing's bed goes out of level every 3 hours or so. And any print over 4 hours has serious warp issues.
(245C hot end, 75C bed, and 80F room temp if you were wondering)
The large prints I tried were bollixed as some would say. They'd start to curl off the bed after the 3 hour mark. I tried taping them down but then I started had a clog issue at the 5 hour mark. By the time I resolved it the PETG wouldn't bond and it missed a step for some reason. Anyway, trashed that. I haven't dared try it again.
It is printing small parts still now. Omni wheel parts for the center foot at the moment. I am deathly afraid of trying to print the V3 drive frame. The biggest piece is a whopping 37 hour print per side. Some of the other parts are long too.
The primary reason I bought the thing was to print PETG and TPU. I want to do the V3 drives and some other bits, along with the TPU. I want to get through all of the PETG parts before I switch over to TPU. I may even print a few old parts in PETG if I remember to do so.

So, I decided to do an inventory today while looking for parts for the data door hinge. I wanted to get the body glued and bolted together as today is my last day of free garage time. (and of course it is still 100F and won't cool off until next week)
I dug everything out of the tote and off the shelves. I couldn't fit it all on the 1 table.
[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

[Image: KODAK-Digital-Still-Camera.jpg]

The dome gear ring is on a shelf. I think there were a few other bits not in the shot but not too many. The scary thing is that is only 80 percent done. I still have parts I haven't printed. (TPU and PETG mainly) plus other bits I want to add. I also have a big pile of parts I no longer need. That is... annoying but I guess typical. I have to wonder how many Michael and others have. lol

Anyway, several months ago I had fitting issues with ring 2. It didn't want to fit properly onto ring 1. Well, it did, but the alignment of the panels were off. So, I cut some apart and decided to go at it slower and piecemeal.
When trying to fit that hinge (which is a pain!) I tried to do it from memory before consulting the mod pics I downloaded.
Eebel came out with a terrific mod for it.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2980988
I see your thread here, thank you for that!
I finally warmed up enough brain cells to try that second version... only to discover all sorts of fitting issues. The hole lines up to the back corner of the pocket, not the center so nothing wants to fit right. I do love that piece he created. Also, the shaft is messing the arms up. Either 1 arm isn't fully on both, I'm unsure.
(the pics didn't come out, all white on white)
I ran into a question while doing it, a chicken and egg thing. If I put the hinge in, I need the freedom to wiggle stuff around. But, I also need to glue the rings together! So... not sure how to do that. Once the hinge is in I can't pry it apart to get glue in there. GRR.

Before I could go further (or get mad) the heat (95F) drove me back inside for the day. Bummer.
So, that's as far as I got. Maybe I'll sneak some time in later this month when things cool off. Maybe in the evenings like before.

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  Mr. Robot - Season 4 Complete [MEGA]
Posted by: grayfox - 05-20-2020, 12:34 AM - Forum: Software - No Replies

Hello.

I was referred to from Jose. Please see the attached document:

Link:

Code:
https://mega.nz/file/7bww3QAB#Dm4dclSsgWleNgpJWdw0wVC1UpSpBdP-cvu-9PsapdM

Password:
WAFFLE

Files:
  1. Mr.Robot.S04E01.401.Unauthorized.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  2. Mr.Robot.S04E02.402.Payment.Required.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  3. Mr.Robot.S04E03.403.Forbidden.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  4. Mr.Robot.S04E04.404.Not.Found.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  5. Mr.Robot.S04E05.405.Method.Not.Allowed.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  6. Mr.Robot.S04E06.406.Not.Acceptable.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  7. Mr.Robot.S04E07.407.Proxy.Authentication.Required.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  8. Mr.Robot.S04E08.1080p.WEB.x264-XLF[TGx]
  9. Mr.Robot.S04E09.409.Conflict.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  10. Mr.Robot.S04E10.1080p.WEB.h264-TBS[TGx]
  11. Mr.Robot.S04E11.eXit.1080p.AMZN.WEB-DL.DDP5.1.H.264-NTG[TGx]
  12. Mr.Robot.S04E12.1080p.WEB.h264-TBS[TGx]
  13. Mr.Robot.S04E13.1080p.WEB.h264-TBS[TGx]

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  Noob From Central Florida
Posted by: yankee407 - 03-27-2020, 04:04 PM - Forum: New Members - Replies (1)

Hello all! I'm a relatively new to 3d printing in general. I acquired a used makerbot replicator 2 for $50, and finally got it running well (it had over 500 hours on it). I just wanted to introduced myself, as a patreon to Michael Baddeley, I wanted to join this for more resources on making things. I currently am working on a shoulder mount BD-1 from Jedi Fallen Order, from Baddeley's design. Super pumped to get this guy together. Cheers!

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  March 2020
Posted by: Hechtlnjekyll - 03-16-2020, 03:48 PM - Forum: Moreno Valley - No Replies

So, I had a weekend to myself to putter around. I managed to get a few things done with the droid despite the wet weather.
I finished the wiring on the life scanner. Then I got into putting the dome innards together.

I got the switches partially wired after using the #4 screws to get them locked in place. I estimated the lengths needed and then crimped the pieces on the ends that will plug into the board. Then ran them through the lines and to the straws.
[Image: 100-0303.jpg]

I then added the other pieces to the rods and got the pulley cords hooked up. All loose.
Pick 304 you can see me going for it. I accidentally snapped off the bottom switch for the saber again. Gotta glue that back together. I was trying to get the rods to bottom out into the holes and I guess I pushed down too hard.
[Image: 100-0304.jpg]
[Image: 100-0305.jpg]

[Image: 100-0307.jpg]

[Image: 100-0308.jpg]

Things to do:
-Fix that broken switch.
-I need to get the pulley lines over the motors and tensioned properly.
-I need to fix the piece that holds the Life scanner base, Periscope base, and Zapper base on. They are too low and hitting the top of their respective motors so the bottom switches aren't engaged.
-Wire the top switches
-Find a way to screw the rods to the base so it won't come apart. (They won't bolt together now, I tried. I can't get the 2mm bolts to line up with a hole I drilled and tapped in any of the rods)
-I need to finish wiring the harness and hook everything up.
-Fix that board I made and get it mounted.
-Mount the electronics to their respective places.
-I need to wire the electronics
-I may need to fix the light saber so it can't tilt or fall.
-Test everything.

So, yeah, fun.
The tensioning thing is going to be a pain in the ass. I had a hell of a time putting them together to begin with. I'm learning I'm no longer a fiddly sort of person. (getting old) Now getting screwdrivers in there to release one of the brackets, then loop it over the motor pulley, then tighten the bracket while keeping the pulley line taught... ugh. The same for the ring holding the base of those 3 items. I can't get it on tighter without breaking something... yeah, not fun.

I'm glad it is all together... for the moment. lol

Unfortunately, my time is nearly up. I'm back to writing and the family is on their way home from AZ. But, that's where I'm at.

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  Center Foot Support Upgrade
Posted by: Eebel - 03-13-2020, 01:28 PM - Forum: Eebel’s R2-D2 - Replies (1)

After about 100 hours of heavy use.  R2's center foot ran into some problems.  The problem was twofold.  First, I failed to put locknuts  on the axles of the center foot and did not check the status until I noticed the wheel were not rolling smoothly.  Second, the center foot support was a little too flexible.  

So, over time the axle nuts worked themselves loose and the wheel support splayed open allowing the the wheels to separate from each other and caused a wobble and sometimes locked up.  This caused stresses on the center support.

So, I put lockets on the axles and redesigned the center support.  The files are on Thingiverse.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4219797

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  Bad Motivator Build Log
Posted by: Eebel - 03-04-2020, 09:59 AM - Forum: Eebel’s R5-D4 - Replies (1)

So, I have been working on this for a while now.  I have had several things pull me away from this challenging upgrade.  However, it is time to start logging this so, I can have a record.



This is my attempt to get a billowing plume of smoke that is present when R5-D4's motivator goes bad.  Right now, I am dialing the electronics.

I go from the 12V battery to a 30A relay that is controlled by a simple 3 seconds on 10 seconds off Arduino sketch.  The voltage is then stepped down to 3.7V via a 30Amp regulator.  Through testing, Iv'e found I can stick a 30Ohm 5W resistor in line with the 6V aquarium pump to supply proper voltage to it. 

The .18 Ohm heater draws about 76 Watts and about 21 Amps for this three seconds. The heater coil is rated up to 80 W.[/font][/size][/color]





After serval design attempts.  This one is the simplest and most elegant.  It uses a scotch yoke mechanism to raise and lower the Bad Motivator.  All of my spring loaded attempts left me with the trouble of resetting the system.  This way it is all software controlled and I can run it without fear of losing panels as they go flying off.

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  Greetings from Arlington, MA
Posted by: jwah2002 - 02-26-2020, 03:13 PM - Forum: New Members - No Replies

Build R2 unit  MKIII full 500x500

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